Teen skincare is overwhelming—one minute you’re watching a TikTok influencer swear by slugging, and the next, someone’s telling you that water is the only skincare you need. With so much conflicting advice, it’s hard to know what’s best for your teen’s skin. So what actually works? And what’s just a social media fad? Let’s break it down with science backed advice from skincare expert, Dr. Michele Koo.
WHAT ACTUALLY WORKS IN TEEN SKINCARE?
The key to healthy, balanced skin isn’t about the latest viral product—it’s about getting the fundamentals right. Here’s what truly matters when it comes to skincare for teenage skin.
GENTLE CLEANSING
A good skincare routine starts with the right cleanser. Teens should opt for a mild, sulfate-free cleanser that removes dirt, oil, and impurities without stripping the skin’s natural moisture barrier. Harsh soaps and abrasive scrubs can lead to irritation, inflammation, and even increased oil production as the skin tries to compensate for the lost moisture. Look for ingredients like glycerin or ceramides to support hydration while cleansing.
HYDRATION & MOISTURE
Even if your teen has oily or acne-prone skin, skipping moisturizer is a big mistake. Dehydrated skin can actually produce more oil in an attempt to stay balanced. A lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer (one that won’t clog pores) helps maintain a healthy skin barrier, reduces sensitivity, and prevents excessive dryness caused by acne treatments. Gel-based or water-based moisturizers with ingredients like hyaluronic acid and niacinamide are great options for keeping the skin smooth and balanced.
SUNSCREEN EVERY DAY
Daily sun protection isn’t just about preventing sunburns—it’s essential for long-term skin health. Exposure to UV rays can cause premature aging, dark spots, and even long-term damage that increases the risk of skin cancer. A broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen should be applied every day, even on cloudy days or when indoors near windows. Teens prone to breakouts should look for oil-free, non-greasy formulas labeled "non-comedogenic" to avoid clogging pores.
TARGETING TREATMENT FOR ACNE
Breakouts are common in teen years due to hormonal changes, but using the right teen acne treatments can help manage them effectively. Look for acne-fighting ingredients like:
- Salicylic Acid – A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that penetrates pores to clear out excess oil and dead skin cells, preventing future breakouts.
- Benzoyl Peroxide – Kills acne-causing bacteria and reduces inflammation but should be used in moderation to avoid excessive dryness.
- Niacinamide – A soothing ingredient that helps reduce redness and regulate oil production.
Overuse of strong acne treatments can disrupt the skin barrier, so spot treatments should be used carefully alongside a balanced routine.
CONSISTENCY OVER TREND
The biggest mistake teens make? Constantly switching products in search of an instant fix. Skincare isn’t about quick transformations—it’s about consistency. A simple, well-structured routine with science-backed ingredients is far more effective than chasing trends that promise overnight results. Encourage sticking to a regimen for at least 6–8 weeks before assessing whether it’s working. By focusing on these core skincare principles, teens can build habits that set the foundation for lifelong healthy skin!
WHAT DOESN’T WORK (OR CAN MAKE THINGS WORSE)?
When it comes to skincare, more isn’t always better. Some common habits and misconceptions can actually do more harm than good, leading to irritation, breakouts, or long-term skin damage. Here’s what to avoid:
OVER-EXFOLIATING
Exfoliation helps remove dead skin cells and keep pores clear, but overdoing it can be a recipe for disaster. Scrubbing too often or using too many exfoliating acids (like AHAs, BHAs, or physical scrubs) can strip away your teen’s skin’s protective barrier. This can lead to redness, irritation, increased sensitivity, and even more breakouts as the skin struggles to heal itself. Stick to gentle exfoliation 2–3 times a week and always follow with hydration to maintain balance.
SKIPPING MOISTURIZER
A common myth is that drying out teen acne will make it disappear, but the opposite is true. When the skin lacks moisture, it tries to compensate by producing even more oil, which can clog pores and lead to further breakouts. A lightweight, clean moisturizer is essential—even for oily or acne-prone skin. Look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid to hydrate and niacinamide to help regulate oil production.
USING TOO MANY PRODUCTS AT ONCE
Layering multiple active ingredients (like retinoids, vitamin C, salicylic acid, and benzoyl peroxide) can overwhelm the skin, leading to irritation, redness, and breakouts. More products don’t always mean better results—sometimes, they can interfere with each other or make the skin more sensitive. Instead, focus on a simple, consistent routine with a few well-chosen ingredients and introduce new treatments gradually.
RELYING ON DIY TREATMENTS
DIY usually means accessible and affordable, this might sound appealing but not all home ingredients are skin-friendly. For example:
- Lemon juice. Highly acidic and can cause chemical burns, irritation, increased sun sensitivity, which can lead to hyperpigmentation.
- Baking soda. Too alkaline for the skin’s natural pH balance, leading to dryness and barrier damage.
- Toothpaste. Often used as a spot treatment, it can be overly drying and irritating, making acne worse.
Instead, opt for dermatologist-approved ingredients like niacinamide, salicylic acid, or benzoyl peroxide, which are scientifically formulated to treat breakouts safely and effectively. Avoiding these common mistakes and focusing on a balanced, science-backed routine will help keep skin healthy, clear, and resilient.
TIKTOK SKINCARE TRENDS: HIT OR MISS?
Social media is full of skincare hacks, but not all of them are expert-approved. Some viral trends can be beneficial, while others might do more harm than good. Here’s a breakdown of popular TikTok skincare trends and whether they’re worth trying.
SLUGGING (USING PETROLEUM JELLY AS THE LAST STEP)
Slugging involves applying a thick layer of petroleum jelly (like Vaseline) as the final step in your nighttime skincare routine to lock in moisture. This can be great for dry or sensitive skin because it strengthens the skin barrier and prevents moisture loss.
DR KOO’S VERDICT
- It’s a hit! But with caution.
"It can be too heavy for acne-prone teens, as petroleum jelly is occlusive—it traps everything underneath, including oil and bacteria, which can lead to clogged pores and breakouts. If you have oily or acne-prone skin, try a lightweight hydrating serum instead." - Dr. Michele Koo.
DIY LEMON & BAKING SODA MASKS
Homemade skincare might seem like a fun and natural alternative to store-bought products, but using lemon juice and baking soda is a recipe for skin irritation. As we’ve mentioned already, lemon juice is extremely acidic (pH-2) and baking soda is too alkaline (pH ~9).
DR KOO’S VERDICT
- 100% miss!
"The combination of these two ingredients can severely damage your skin barrier and even lead to long-term sensitivity issues." - Dr. Michele Koo.
MICRONEEDLING AT HOME
Microneedling involves using tiny needles to create micro-injuries in the skin, boosting collagen production and improving skin texture. While this can be effective in a professional setting, at-home microneedling devices are risky, especially on young skin.
DR KOO’S VERDICT
- It’s a miss!
"Improper technique and non-sterile needles can lead to scarring, irritation, hyperpigmentation and bacterial infections. You can also make acne and post-inflammatory marks worse, not better." - Dr. Michele Koo.
CLEANSING WITH JUST WATER
Some TikTok influencers claim that washing your face with only water is the best way to avoid stripping your skin’s natural oils. While it’s true that over-cleansing can be harmful, skipping cleanser entirely isn’t a good idea. Water alone does not break down sunscreen, excess oil or dirt. Leaving impurities on your skin can lead to clogged pores and breakouts.
DR KOO’S VERDICT
- It’s a miss!!
"A gentle, sulfate-free cleanser helps clean the skin without disrupting its natural barrier. Aim to double cleanse at night if wearing sunscreen or makeup. Consider a product like the Anti-toxin exfoliating cleanse for finicky skin" - Dr. Michele Koo.
YOU’RE JUST A KOO-WAY FROM THE BEST TEEN SKINCARE
TikTok can be a great place for skincare inspiration, but not every trend is backed by science. Always research before trying a new hack—especially if it involves strong ingredients, DIY methods, or invasive treatments. When in doubt, consult a skincare expert for advice.
